BERLINER DOM (Berlin Cathedral). This impressive 19th-century cathedral, with its enormous green copper dome, is one of the great ecclesiastical buildings in Germany. There's an observation balcony that allows a view of the cathedral's ceiling and interior. More than 80 sarcophagi of Prussian royals are on display in the cathedral's catacombs. Am Lustgarten, PHONE: 030/2026-9136. COST: DM 5, with balcony DM 8. Church: Mon.-Sat. 9-7, Sun. noon-8; balcony: Mon.-Sat. 9-7, Sun. noon-5; imperial staircase and crypt: Mon.-Sat. 9-8, Sun. noon-7. www.berlinerdom.de

BRANDENBURGER TOR (Brandenburg Gate). This massive gate, once the pride of imperial Berlin and the city's premiere landmark, was left in an eerie no-man's-land when the Wall was built. Since the Wall's dismantling, the gate has become the focal point of much celebrating and is the nation's central party venue for New Year's Eve. This is the sole remaining gate of 14 built by Carl Langhans in 1788-91, designed for King Frederick Wilhelm II. The square behind the gate, Pariser Platz, has regained its traditional, prewar design: Looking east, the left side of the square is dominated by a bank and the French and American embassies. To the right stands the Akademie der Künste, the city's famous Academy of Arts. Toward Potsdamer Platz, south of the Brandenburg Gate, the new Holocaust Mahnmal, Germany's national Holocaust memorial, is being built.

CHECKPOINT CHARLIE. This famous crossing point between the two Berlins is where American and Soviet tanks faced off in the tense months of the Berlin blockade (1948-49). All evidence of the crossing point disappeared along with the Wall, but the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (House at Checkpoint Charlie -- The Wall Museum) is still here to tell the Wall's fascinating stories. The museum reviews the events leading up to its construction and displays actual tools and equipment, records, and photographs documenting methods used by East Germans to cross over to the West. Friedrichstr. 43-45, PHONE: 030/253-7250. COST: DM 8. Daily 9 AM-10 PM.

EAST SIDE GALLERY. This stretch of concrete amounts to nothing less than the largest open-air gallery in the world. Between February and June of 1990, 118 artists from around the globe created unique works of art on the longest remaining section -- 1.3 km (.8 mi) -- of the Berlin Wall; it has been declared an historic monument. One of the best-known works, by Russian artist Dmitri Vrubel, depicts Brezhnev and Honnecker (the former East German leader) kissing, with the caption "My God. Help me survive this deadly love." Mühlenstr./Oberbaumbrücke. www.eastsidegallery.com

FRIEDRICHSTRASSE. There's probably no other street in the whole of eastern Germany that has changed as dramatically as Friedrichstrasse. The once-bustling 5th Avenue of Berlin's prewar days has risen from the rubble of war and Communist negligence to recover its glamour of old. The jewel of this street is the Friedrichstadtpassagen, a gigantic shopping and business complex of three buildings praised for their completely different designs. The buildings are connected by an underground mall of elegant shops and eateries. Französische Str. 23, PHONE: 030/209-480. Weekdays 9:30-8, Sat. 9-4.

GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER (Berlin Wall Memorial Site). This is the only nearly original piece of the Berlin Wall border system left in the city. The museum took almost seven years to realize, as most East Berliners living nearby didn't want a reminder of the gruesome symbol of German separation right in front of their homes. The museum shows a 230-ft-long piece of the whole Wall system, which consisted of two walls, and a control path between them used by border guards and their German shepherds. Standing behind one wall, you can look through small observation windows to the other. Bernauer Str. 111. PHONE: 030/464-1030. COST: Free. Wed.-Sun. 10-5.

GENDARMENMARKT. This large square is the site of the beautifully reconstructed 1818 Schauspielhaus, one of Berlin's main concert halls, and the Deutscher Dom and Französischer Dom (German and French cathedrals). The French cathedral contains the Hugenottenmuseum, with exhibits charting the history and art of the Protestant refugees from France -- the Huguenots -- expelled at the end of the 17th century by King Louis XIV. Gendarmenmarkt 5, PHONE: 030/229-1760. COST: DM 3. Tues.-Sat. noon-5, Sun. 11-5. The Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral) has an extensive historical exhibition sponsored by the Bundestag, the German parliament. A café and bookstore are on the top floor. Gendarmenmarkt 1, PHONE: 030/2273-0431. COST: Free. Tues.-Sun. 10-5.

HACKESCHE HÖFE (Hacke Warehouses). Built in 1905-07, the completely restored Hackesche Höfe are the finest example of Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) industrial architecture in Berlin. The huge complex is comprised of nine courtyards connected by narrow passageways. Most of the buildings are covered with white tiles and decorated in blue and gray mosaics. Today the Hackesche Höfe are the center of the bustling nightlife in Mitte, with several style-conscious bars and pubs, the restaurant Hackescher Hof, the variety theater Chamäleon Vareté, a drama stage, and a movie theater. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.hackeschehoefe.de

KAISER-WILHELM-GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church). This ruin stands as a dramatic reminder of World War II's destruction. The bell tower, which Berliners call "hollow tooth," is all that remains of the once-imposing church, which was built between 1891 and 1895. In stark contrast to the old bell tower are the adjoining Memorial Church and Tower. These ultramodern octagonal structures are perhaps best described by their nicknames: the lipstick and the powder box. Church music and organ concerts are presented in the church regularly. An exhibition inside the old tower focuses on the devastation of World War II, with a cross constructed of nails recovered from the ashes of Coventry Cathedral in England, destroyed in a German bombing raid in November 1940. Breitscheidpl., PHONE: 030/218-5023. COST: Free. Old Tower, Mon.-Sat. 10-4; Memorial Church, daily 9-7. www.gedachtniskirche.com

KAUFHAUS DES WESTENS (Department Store of the West). The KaDeWe isn't just Berlin's classiest department store; it's also Europe's largest, a grand-scale emporium in modern guise. Its seven floors hold an enormous selection, but it is best known for its two top floors' food and delicatessen counters, restaurants, champagne bars, and beer bars, and for its crowning rooftop winter garden. Tauentzienstr. 21, PHONE: 030/21210. Mon.-Fri. 9:30-8, Sat. 9-4. www.kadewe.com

KULTURFORUM (Cultural Forum). With its unique ensemble of museums, galleries, libraries, and the Philharmonic Hall, this complex is considered one of Germany's cultural jewels. The Gemäldegalerie is one of Germany's finest art galleries and houses an extensive selection of European paintings from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Matthäikirchpl. 8, PHONE: 030/2660; 030/2090-5555 for all state museums in Berlin. COST: DM 4; a Tageskarte (day card) is available for DM 8 and covers 1-day admission to all museums at Kulturforum. It is available at all museums. Tues.-Sun. 10-6. Steps away from the Gemäldegalerie are two examples of ultramodern architecture. The Kunstbibliothek (Art Library; PHONE: 030/2090-5555; Mon. 2-8, Tues.-Fri. 9-8) contains art posters, a costume library, and a commercial art collection. The exhibitions at the Kupferstichkabinett (Drawings and Prints Collection) include European woodcuts, engravings, and illustrated books from the 15th century to the present. Matthäikirchpl. 6, PHONE: 030/266-2002. COST: Free. Tues.-Fri. 10-6, weekends 11-6.

KURFÜRSTENDAMM. This grand boulevard, nicknamed the Ku'damm, is certainly the liveliest and most exciting stretch in Berlin. The busy thoroughfare was first laid out in the 16th century as the path by which the elector Joachim II of Brandenburg traveled from his palace on the Spree River to his hunting lodge in the Grunewald. The Kurfürstendamm (Elector's Causeway) was developed into a major route in the late 19th century, thanks to the initiative of Bismarck, Prussia's Iron Chancellor.

MUSEUMSINSEL (Museum Island). This unique complex of four world-class museums is an absolute must -- and not just for museum buffs. The Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery, entrance on Bodestrasse) reopens in early 2001. Its outstanding collection, with works by Cézanne, Rodin, Degas, and one of Germany's most famous portrait artists, Max Liebermann, is temporarily on display at the Altes Museum (Old Museum).

Even if you think you aren't interested in the ancient world, make an exception for the Pergamonmuseum (entrance on Am Kupfergraben). It is not only the standout in this complex, but one of the world's greatest museums. The museum's name is derived from its principal and best-loved display, the Pergamon Altar, a monumental Greek temple dating from 180 BC.

Please note: Due to the continuing reconstruction of the Museumsinsel, the Altes Museum and parts of the Pergamonmuseum will be closed in 2001. Entrance to Museumsinsel: Am Kupfergraben. Museumsinsel: PHONE: 030/209-050. COST: Each museum on Museumsinsel DM 8; free 1st Sun. of every month; Tageskarte (day card, DM 8), available at each museum, covers 1-day admission to all museums. All museums Tues.-Sun. 10-6. www.smb.spk-berlin.de

PFAUENINSEL (Peacock Island). The Pfaueninsel is a small oasis which served as a romantic hideaway for Prussian king Friedrich Wilhelm II and his mistresses. Schloss Pfaueninsel, the ruinlike small palace on the island in the Great Wannsee, was erected in 1794 according to the ruler's plans and -- in accordance the taste of his era -- was built as a fake ruin. In the early 19th century garden architect Joseph Peter Lenné designed an English garden on the island, which ultimately became western Berlin's favorite summer retreat. Pfaueninselchaussee, PHONE: 030/805-3042. COST: DM 2. Daily 10-4. www.pfaueninsel.de

REICHSTAG (Parliament Building). The Bundestag, Germany's federal parliament, returned to its traditional seat in the spring of 1999. British architect Sir Norman Foster did extensive remodeling to the gray monolithic structure, adding its glass dome, which has quickly become one of the city's main attractions: you can walk up a snail-like, gently rising staircase reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright's New York Guggenheim Museum while taking in a spectacular view of Berlin. Visit either in the early morning or evening to avoid the longest lines. Platz der Republik 1, PHONE: 030/2270. COST: Free. Daily 8 AM-10 PM. www.bundestag.de

SAMMLUNG BERGGRUEN (Berggruen Collection). This small museum in the historic Stüler-Bau (once a museum of ancient art) focuses on the history of modern art, with representative work from such artists as van Gogh and Cézanne, Picasso, Giacometti, Klee, and more contemporary artists. Heinz Berggruen, a businessman who emigrated to the United States in the 1930s, collected the excellent paintings on display. Opened in 1996, this intimate museum has become one of Berlin's most beloved art venues. Schlosstr. 1, PHONE: 030/326-9580. COST: DM 8. Tues.-Fri. 9-6, weekends 11-6. www.smb.spk-berlin.de

SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG (Charlottenburg Palace). This showplace of western Berlin, the most monumental reminder of imperial days, served as a city residence for the Prussian rulers. You can easily spend a full day here. The gorgeous palace started as a modest royal summer residence in 1695, built on the orders of King Friedrich I for his wife, Sophie-Charlotte. The Altes Schloss is the main building with the suites of Friedrich I and his wife. The Neuer Flügel (New Wing; COST: DM 5; Tues.-Fri. 10-6, weekends 11-6), where Frederick the Great once lived, is also called the Knobbeldorff-Flügel. It showcases the 138-ft-long Goldene Galerie (Golden Gallery), the palace's ballroom. Visits to the royal apartments are by guided tour only; tours leave every hour on the hour from 9 to 4. Luisenpl., PHONE: 030/3209-1275. COST: Altes Schloss DM 10. A Tageskarte (day card) for DM 15 covers the admission for all bldgs. and exhibits. Altes Schloss: Tues.-Thurs. 9-5, Fri. 9-5, weekends 11-6.

TIERGARTEN (Animal Garden). For Berliners the quiet greenery of the 630-acre Tiergarten is a beloved green oasis in the heart of urban turmoil. In the summer the park, with some 23 km (14 mi) of footpaths, playgrounds, and white marble sculptures, becomes the embodiment of multicultural Berlin. On the shores of the lake in the southwestern part of the park, you can relax at the Café am Neuen See, a café and beer garden. In the center of the Tiergarten is the former Kongresshalle (John-Foster-Dulles Allee 10, PHONE: 030/397-870; Tues.-Sun. 9-6), nicknamed the "pregnant oyster" for its design; it's now home to the World Culture House.

ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN (Zoological Gardens). Germany's oldest zoo opened in 1844, and today it's the world's largest. After the destruction of World War II the zoo was carefully redesigned to create surroundings as close as possible to the animals' natural habitats. The zoo houses more than 14,000 animals belonging to 1,400 different species and has been successful at breeding rare and endangered species. The Asian-style Elefantentor (Elephant Gate) is the main entrance to the zoo and is also next to the aquarium. Hardenbergpl. 8 and Budapester Str. 34, PHONE: 030/254-010. COST: Zoo DM 14, aquarium DM 14, combined ticket to zoo and aquarium DM 22.50. Zoo Nov.-Feb., daily 9-5; early Mar., daily 9-5:30; late Mar.-late Sept., daily 9-6:30; Oct., daily 9-6; aquarium daily 9-6.